Dear Ann,
Before I presume to tell anybody how to set in a sleeve, a disclaimer: I don’t really know how to set in a sleeve. It’s one of those things that when I have to do it, I say to myself, what the hell, here goes nothing. I try to remember things I’ve been told about setting in sleeves. And I do the best I can, and generally feel OK about it after it’s over. After all, I have a sweater! It has sleeves!
The first thing I do, when faced with setting in a sleeve, is ask myself this question: do I have to do this? If the sweater is knit flat, in pieces, and the sleeve is knit flat, the answer is no. You do not have to fit a finished sleeve into an armhole. You can join the shoulder seams, then mattress-stitch that sleeve head into the u-shape of the armhole, and THEN sew the sleeve seams and the side seams of the body. You can do this with a traditional set-in sleeve in a flat-knit sweater, and you can also do it for a raglan sleeve in a flat-knit sweater. It’s unorthodox. It’s a bit fiddly and imperfect. But that’s the way I do it.
By now you can probably tell that I’ve knit a lot of Rowan patterns; Rowan sweaters typically are knit flat and in pieces. This method of construction has its pros and cons, its fans and detractors, but one thing it does not do is create tubes that have to be sewn into holes in other tubes.
But my Monomania cardigan is not constructed in the Rowan manner. The body of the cardigan is knit flat, but not in pieces. It is knit in a single piece from the bottom hem up to the armhole openings.
Designer Ann Weaver took advantage of this construction method to do gentle shaping decreases and increases that are hidden within the chevron pattern under the arms. (It’s genius, but it required her to write separate shaping instructions for each size.) When you get to the armholes, you work the body and the two sleeves separately to shape the openings. Then you join the shoulder seams, creating two holes where the sleeves have to be sewn in. The sleeves are tubes. You have to sew (or otherwise connect) them into the hole.
It’s a three-dimensional proposition, sewing a tube into a hole. You can’t lie the pieces flat, so it’s hard to get purchase on them; they wiggle around. The challenge is to get the tube and the hole lined up properly–smoothly and evenly, without bunching–and then to get them to sit still long enough to sew the seam. Over the years, I’ve tried regular sewing pins, safety pins, those wooden pins for knitting (the ones that look like tiny knitting needles), I even tried hair clips. None of these tools were 100% satisfactory: the knitting always wants to slip and slide a little. Metal pins want to catch on the yarn, or split it. Meh.
This summer, Ina Braun, a master knitter and teacher, told me about Clover Wonder Clips, and how useful they are in sewing Alabama Chanin garments, to hold armhole and neck binding on so that you can attach it with embroidery stitches. Clover Wonder Clips are flat on one side, curved on the other, and they grip very tightly. I soon discovered that the Clover clips are also fantastic for holding a garment’s seams together before sewing them with a running stitch. The cotton jersey used in Alabama Chanin garments is knitted, and it has a tendency to curl and move around, just like handknitting. While I was procrastinating setting in the sleeves on my Monomania, I saw my jar of Clover clips and realized they were my salvation .
Voila. Step 1: clip the center of the top of the sleeve to the center of the top of the tube, and then clip the center of the bottom of the sleeve to the center of the bottom of the tube.
Step 2: evenly distribute the rest of the sleeve around the rest of the hole, clipping as you go.
Monomania’s stripes made this much easier, because all I had to do was line up the stripes and clip, clip, clip–and the fabric was automatically distributed evenly.
Step 3: Back-stitch the neatly-lined-up edges of sleeve and hole together, removing the clips as you get to them. (I initially tried crocheting this seam, but it looked too loose and awful on the right side of the seam, so I unzipped it and did the good old-fashioned back stitch.)
I promise you it was not hard. I will never quite feel like I know what I’m doing when I back-stitch a seam, especially a curved armhole seam. Back stitch is not as precise as mattress stitch. But I got it done, and it’s fine. And thanks to the wonder of Clover Wonder Clips, the edges stayed put while I sewed.
So, onward to the neck edging, blocking and sewing on the buttons. Nearly there.
Love,
Kay
Your sweater is looking beautiful! I love those tones.
Those clips have been on my Amazon wishlist for ages, and seeing them used for this purpose is another good reason to buy them – thanks!
As a longtime sew-er (so much so that “sewist” feel funny), I’m wondering if you need to state the obvious here: right sides together, seaming on the wrong side? Looks fab! Ann Weaver is also one of my faves. XXO
I’ve been doing something similar for years, but the MacGuyver version: wee little binder clips. Chances are, if you’re me, you’re going to lose those little clippies that are rather expensive, so I just buy a little box of binder clips when I stroll through Target or wherever. I have them hanging around for this purpose (and also their intended usage), and don’t have to worry about whether I’ll have enough of them.
Binder clips are a great substitute, and I’ve used them in the past. But I will not lose my Clovers; they are in a Bonne Maman jar in a highly visible spot of honor. The flat side and lack of sharp edges on the Clovers makes them particularly good for knitwear.
Good morning ladies … OMG … mentioned on the blog … I almost fainted! Well … ok … ok … I was delighted indeed … the wonder clips are a MUST … fabulosity and practicality beyond measure … as for the placement … excellent as suggested when you have stripes to line up … but if not … the pinch the middle pinch the middle is the way to go! The Alabama Chanin stitch book takes that approach as well! And as Maggi mentioned above … I do always seam from the RIGHT SIDE … then I can see what’s going on and don’t have to keep flipping things to see what it looks like … also gives me the mattress stitch with more stretch than the back stitch. Can’t wait to see you model it … fabulously in some manner as previously suggested in the skirts cum pullovers post … perhaps over the full length Alabama Chanin skirt? Or the wrap skirt? Do kiss Olive on the nose … happiest of holidays to all!!!
Wait, what? “seam from the RIGHT SIDE … then I can see what’s going on and don’t have to keep flipping things” – What? How?
Only works for mattress stitch. If you clip them in on the right side, you could then use mattress stitch. Not sure even I am enough of a mattress stitch devotee to do this.
Kay … maybe we should do a video on how to do this sort of seaming from the right side with easing and clip in the middle and bla bla bla … so very useful and a most polished outcome!!! And split the edge stitch if a stockinette stitch border … oh … I could go on and on and on!!! Kiss Olive on the nose!
I am. I despise sewing from the wrong side and then discovering that I have somehow folded or pleated the material into the seam, or slipped one piece of fabric relative to the other so that the garment is all awry. Mattress stitch all the way, baby.
The real trick is avoiding sewing the sleeve on inside out. Don’t ask me how I know. And that tip applies for mattress or backstitch
Tip of the Day, Barbara! Believe me, I check twice before I starting clipping on the clips.
Thanks for this. I’m going to be finishing up a sweater soon (I hope), and I needed this!
Do we find these in the quilting department? They sound like must haves.
Yes, in the sewing department. But I’ve started to see them at knitting stores.
No need to run around to find them lovely clips … click and buy right here on amazon … http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZKPWUO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B004ZKPWUO&linkCode=as2&tag=masondixonkni-20&linkId=NBKDXGPNKJ26RLXI
I really appreciate the detailed instructions on how to use these clips. I have a brioche sweater that is constructed the same way and I’ve been dreading and putting off the seaming. Several years ago at Stitches East I found the same item called Knit Klips. It came 5 to a pack for $6.99. Package says distributed by Kelly Klip, Inc. 132 Woodhaven Drive, Sarver, PA 16055. I don’t know if Clover assumed the patent but it is virtually the same item. I really appreciate the detailed instructions on how to use these clips because to date, the package has remained unopened.
Must. Get. Immediately. That is all.
Agree!
I tend to use my sewing brain to assemble garments, as usually the knitting instructions are somewhat lacking. Matching seams, and easing in as you go … Just like fabric. So I did a “whoa” when in Step 2 you said “clip as you go” because in sewing you can clip (literally clip with a scissor) seams that are curved and need a little assistance lining up. Though I am at a bit of a loss as to what word would have been better … (Attach?) Maybe it is the 60 degree weather here in NJ!
Also, awaiting a new supply of Wonder Clips that were an Amazon Lightning special the other day — the Husbeast saw the confirmation e-mail and asked “you ordered something. What do they do?” Little does he know …
And I Love Love Love your sweater. The
That is a beautiful sweater!!!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZKPX8A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
RED 50 pack under $15!
in my cart now… thanks so much for this!
I ❤️ my Wonder Clips. Wait till you have to put in a zipper – Clover Wonder Clips will save all sorts of frustration!!
These sound so much better than the (incredibly fragile) orchid clips I’ve been using. In fact, as I type this, DD and DH are headed out the door to they to snag a pack for me at our local JoAnn so I can finally finish DGS’s Tuxedo Sweater. My usual “pin to an exercise roller” method is not possible with this tiny thing. (In case you’re wondering, pool noodles crumble when pins are inserted.) Otherwise, I’ll order through Amazon Smile, same great products and service with the added bonus of a donation to my favorite charity. There are many, many charities to choose from and if your favorite charity is not listed you can nominate them.
I have one package of Clover Clips for small sewing projects. Clearly one needs more than one package! I am in Clover Clip deficit!
Kay,
Totally appreciate this post, especially the disclaimer, as I can absolutely relate. My experience with knitting garments with sleeves has been with baby sweaters (and it has been a while ). Would absolutely LOVE a video, as suggested by Ina+Pokey+Stella.
Your sweater is lovely, Kay. Can’t wait to see it modeled!
LoveDiane