First Person
The Latvian Spirit of Making
Across my time here in Latvia, I’ve been lucky enough to visit many communities across its four regions. These visits are exchanges: I learn something from the local knitting studio, get to see the town; I discuss my book project, what it’s like being a Fulbrighter, why I’m in Latvia.
But those moments are planned. Knitwear is pulled out of storage and displayed proudly. It’s remarkable all the samples I’ve seen!
However, it’s in the quiet moments where I get to see the stories and the lives behind the wool.
Paul, Linda, and Mara
In particular, the Latvian National Centre for Culture (LNCC) invited me to join them for Satiec Savu Meistaru (Meet Your Master). Every weekend in April, I joined Linda, my advisor at the LNCC, and her entourage to visit local cultural centers.
We toured the four regions of Latvia: Vidzeme to the North, Kurzeme to the West, Zemgale and Selonia to the South, and Latgale to the East. There, local studios opened their doors to teach new skills, discuss old traditions, and pass them along to the next generation.
Each studio blended new and old with countless Latvian mittens displayed. New motifs were found as they took inspiration from the world around them rather than referencing the Ethnographic Book Collections. This in particular interested me: Latvia possesses a mentality to renew and restore rather than to start over; all history must be remembered.
For example, many of the cultural houses are former German Manor houses built during the Germanic feudalism period prior to Latvia’s independence in 1918. Each location was once private, but now serves the public community. Live music, museum exhibitions, art, and even lodging, fill these spaces to celebrate Latvian culture and heritage.
One of these spaces was in Spāre.
We were given a tour of the grand home, their hostel offerings, and the old kitchen. In the manor’s library, Linda found an old childhood book she grew up with. The illustrator is a well-known Latvian.
It’s these moments I live for—discovering personal moments such as a favorite book or treat. Each of us have favorite books, memories, and techniques. It’s what makes us human. We’re truly all the same in the end.
Other small moments happened too: I sipped chicory coffee in the old kitchen with my herring and potatoes. Other communities treated us to local pastries and meal. I learned how people live their everyday lives, and I’ve realized it’s similar to how I live my life too–albeit with less herring in mine.
The last weekend in April was my favorite and it truly captured Satiec Savu Meistaru.
Despite a rocky start thanks to a flat tire, we traveled to Rezekne for the Latgalian Pottery Days. I have a soft spot for ceramic art; after all I need coffee/tea to have alongside my knitting!
We stayed near Lūznava in the heart of the Latgalian forest. Here, ritual, old magic, and folk tales linger. The local ceramic studio, Cukrasāta, hosted a party as they worked to fire, heat, and seal the kiln to fire the traditional black clay pottery.
For the first time, a woman and esteemed ceramics artist, Viola Bīriņa, fired the kiln. I’m not sure if it was the environment, or thanks to a power nap and a late night coffee, but I was invigorated.
I witnessed what made Latvia special: a sacredness for life and making art, amidst a beautiful night. I felt honored to be a part of it. As the only American in attendance, it’s easy to feel like an outsider.
But that night I felt included to celebrate the magic of Latvian Satiec Savu Meistaru days: to share a love for life (with lots of balsam and live music) against the backdrop of a sunset.
In Latgale, I felt the weight of the stories I’ve learned, the friends I’ve made, and in one short month, my grant will end. It was a bittersweet moment to witness these dreamers and their generosity.
I wish I could have remained there. It felt pivotal: a point of self-reflection about next steps beyond Latvia. I can’t go back to my normal life after a year like this. And that’s okay. I know I’ll hold onto the Latvian spirit of making—to remember the past, then continue onto the next story.
I just know for that moment, I was doing the right thing, enjoying a spring evening, alongside people I’ve come to love so much.
Men have a different approach to knitting-more like an engineer. I have the impression that a male knitter knows in advance what he will knit, but women can never predict what will come out. We wish you luck und success, Paul, and look forward to new descriptions!
I’m a female engineer. I know exactly what will come out of any changes/adjustments I make. Please don’t make assumptions based on gender.
That’s quite an assumption based on genders … I would venture to say that math and logic minded people have more of that engineering mindset you described.
I’m a woman and if I deviate from the pattern or design my own modifications, I chart/calculate everything religiously and exactingly in Excel.
I agree completely although I don’t use Excel. I do the math & charts by hand and the numbers have to add up! I always want to know how something is going to come out. Yarn is too expensive for guesswork.
Should’ve said I agree completely with the comments to Tina’s post.
Your writing is evocative, Paul, with stunning photographs. Thanks for the visit to a country I know little about. It must be lovely to be in a country that appears to cherish its handwork heritage. Those mittens…WOW!
What a privelege you enjoyed! Thank you for sharing that.
Thank you Paul, Franklin, and everyone else who has contributed articles about everything from ….knitting to weaving to velvet making to rug making….from all around the world!
While my passport book has never been stamped, I feel as if I have traveled the world!
Thank you!
My parents helped find jobs and homes for a Latvian family in the 1950’s. I am always interested to learn more about their homeland. I hope we made them feel as welcomed as your hosts did you. Looking forward to seeing your knitwear designs.
Thank you for sharing your fantastic experiences!
Very interesting….thank you for sharing, maybe there is a knitting and yarn retreat being planned for Latvia?
I’d love to make that happen!
What a wonderful story about an area that I know nothing! Thanks for the glimpse into your life-changing experience. Those mittens!!!
Love you, Nanna Sue!
This sounds like a wonderful unique experience for you! Thanks for sharing.
My grandmother was born in Latvia in a small village near Riga. I enjoyed reading about your visit to Latvia. It brought to life all the stories she told me about her life there before she came to America in. 1906.
Proud to have watched him ‘come up’ just a little while!
Wabash Proud! All kinds of talent and potential in this young creative designer.
How completely wonderful! Thank you for sharing your adventures and your learning with us.
Thank you for sharing your fantastic experiences!
What a remarkable adventure and learning experience. Your writing is superb and your thoughts about what you learned and the people you met are inspirational. Thank you for introducing me to a new country and their lives.
Oh this was so love to read. Thank you. My father’s family were from Latvia. I never went there but wish I had. Knitting and crocheting are very much part of my life and many recipes from Dad’s mother are part of our daily life. Arohanui to you from New Zealand. XOXO
enjoyed your journey n love yarn art
So nice to see Paul’s travel/learning log on MDK. Have been following him on IG, and look forward to more of his story in the future…
Fascinating post -I may have missed it – but what is happening on the loom in the featured photo? Some kind of weaving? Something else? So curious- thanks!
It’s a miniature “training” loom for weaving. They make shawls making this method on larger looms.
Thank you! I thought it looked a lot like the “styrofoam tray” looms my mom used to teach grade school students -but wasn’t certain.
I would love to hear more about shawl making using that loom. Thanks for sharing your travels.
Aww, thank you for sharing your experience ❤️
Oh this was so love to read. Thank you. My father’s family were from Latvia. I never went there but wish I had. Knitting and crocheting are very much part of my life and many recipes from Dad’s mother are part of our daily life. Arohanui to you from New Zealand. XOXO
Enjoyed the telling of your time with all these wonderful people and all the crafts. Always interested in different forms if knitting.
What a beautiful journey you’ve had in Latvia and I can imagine how hard it will be to leave this wonderful place. I love how they respect their heritage and work to show others how to carry it on! Best of luck going forward and keep us posted on your next adventure❤️
Very touching. Lovely photos too. Young people like you give me some hope for our future. Be well
It’s great to hear about your Latvian life and study. Your friends at the Santa Fe Opera Costume Shop love keeping up with your adventures.
Barb! I miss you! So good to hear from you. Thanks for the love
As a displaced person at 3 years of age, who arrived in Australia after WW2 & went to Latvian Saturday school, and discovered the wonders of cultural life in latvia after 1992 Independence, I delighted to read this article by Paul Haesmeyer & his joy.
I’m in my 70s and started knitting again during the pandemic. Nothing very big – dishcloths and a baby jacket (for a project at the church). From what I’ve read the medieval knitting Guilds in England tended to have male members though I’m sure women did knitting at home back then. I know very little about Latvia but the folk art cited in the article seems most interesting. This article popped up in recommendations on my smartphone today. It’s the first time I’ve come across your magazine but I’m sure it won’t be the last.
Your smart phone has led you to an amazing place. Look around while you’re here- there’s loads more articles similar to this and all kinds of maker profiles and inspiration to be had. MDK is amazing!
A lovely essay-sounds like a fabulous experience. Thank you for sharing it. I look forward to seeing how you incorporate these experiences into your new designs.