Beyond Knitting
Top Hand-Sewing Tips (from a Knitter)
I don’t know exactly how long I’ve been stitching in the Natalie Chanin style. Back in the early 2000s, I looked at it longingly for a long time, flipping through Natalie’s Alabama Stitch Book and Alabama Studio Style, drooling and sighing—and then talking myself out of it.
Sometime around 2013, I finally jumped in when a dear friend put me out of my misery by giving me a kit. I stitched and beaded the living heck out of that swing skirt, which I wear to this day.
In the intervening years, I’ve spent many lovely, languid hours with needle, thread, and organic cotton jersey—and made some of my favorite pieces to wear.
If you’ve been standing on the sidelines like I was, here are my two tips on how to carry yourself across the threshold into the elevated and elevating world of hand sewing with Natalie Chanin.
Take a Workshop With Natalie Chanin
Natalie’s books are fantastic. But as with knitting, the best, easiest, fastest way in is to learn a new skill is from a person who knows how.
I’ve taken a half dozen workshops from The School of Making: in New York, Nashville, and Florence, Alabama. To be clear, a single workshop is all you need! I just love stitching with Natalie and her artisans, and I always take away something new.
In-person workshops with Natalie Chanin are rare these days, and virtual workshops even rarer. So I highly recommend that you take advantage of the opportunity to attend our virtual workshop with Natalie on Friday, September 6, from noon-3 p.m. eastern time. If the time isn’t convenient, no worries—the workshop will be recorded, and everyone who is enrolled will receive all instructional materials.
Get a Kit from The School of Making
When you sign up for the workshop, your order confirmation email includes a PDF with a list of materials and tools you’ll need to sew along with Natalie as she demos basic techniques (jersey fabric, button craft thread, sewing needles).
Some of you have been hanging onto a kit from The School of Making that you’ve been saving for the right moment—well, this is the right moment! The PDF also has links to a selection of DIY kits recommended for beginners.
A kit makes for the most fun and highest motivation for your stitching journey. A kit from the School of Making is top-notch in every way, from the U.S.-grown, -spun, -dyed, and -knitted organic jersey fabric to the strongest thread in the world, to the fact that every kit is stenciled and cut to order by a skilled artisan, with zero waste. You read that right: zero. You will receive any scraps generated from cutting your kit, for use in your own sewing and upcycling adventures.
Only you can decide if a kit makes sense for you, considering both the cost and the joy you’ll get from making and wearing your piece for a very long time. This is the kind of math that we knitters consider carefully every time we choose a new project.
If you’re having trouble picking one out, you can count on us (always) for a strong opinion.
Both Ann and I believe that a swing skirt is an ideal first kit for a beginner. It may seem counterintuitive, but we promise you that this skirt is well within the reach of anyone who can do a running stitch. A surprising thing we’ve learned from making many swing skirts is that it’s a fast process, at least when compared to making sweaters!
The swing skirt looks great on every single person we’ve ever seen wear one. It’s only four panels, embellished as simply (or elaborately) as you please, and sewn up in an afternoon. As comfortable as yoga pants, but looks a lot nicer.
And not for nothing, but there is no more perfect outfit, for any occasion we can think of, than a handknit sweater worn with a swing skirt from The School of Making. Dress it up, dress it down, you’re h-o-t-t-o-g-o.
Heads up: to be sure that you’ll have your kit in time for the workshop, get your order in to The School of Making by August 12.
All the photos up top are from my 2023 summer stitching project: a swing skirt featuring the Tony stencil. I started it at Ann’s house last August, finished it at home before Labor Day, and have been wearing it for almost a year now.
Note: MDK does not receive a commission or any compensation from sales of kits.
These look so fun and attractive!
I’m curious: why is the very strong button thread used for cotton jersey? Seems like a lot for the weight of the fabric. Or maybe the thread I’m thinking of is different? (I’ve used button & carpet thread for repairing hand woven rugs.)
I just finished a yearlong project of an Alabama Chanin Aline dress. I’m wearing it to every event in my calendar. I first made a “bird” t-shirt from an AC kit, and then made my own “kit” for the dress with locally sourced fabric and stenciling supplies from AC. It was still a splurge but I’m so proud of myself and love the dress. This post convinced me to give in and do the class. May need to give some thought to the skirt but have sizing concerns. But oh, I’m excited.
I co-led a “Host a Party” group of skirt makers last year and we found that folks on the customer service side if you call Alabama Chanin are happy to discuss nuances of fitting. This jersey has a lot of give as does the foldover elastic; you can also make adjustments to the four seams. And this skirt doesnt have the nickname Alabama Spanx for nothing!
I get you, and I was surprised at the strength of the threads when I received my kits. I thought they were overkill. But handstitched stitches are always larger than tiny machine stitches, especially on cotton jersey – you can’t compare them to the tiny stitches you can do on a lawn or voile for instance. It is practically impossible and also quite inadvisable to make really small stitches on jersey. Normal sewing thread whether synthetic or cotton won’t be strong enough. Plus, part of the charm is the obvious stitches, which look measly in most sewing threads. I guess one could use pearl cotton… Also, they’ve been at it for so long, so they know what they’re doing… At least that’s my feeling about it, and I have been sewing and knitting and crocheting since I was 8 years old. 62 now.
I actually used some of their thread to make the fingerless gloves from one of her books out of a shrunken cashmere sweater. Been years now and still going strong. Love them :).
Everything Francesca says! Natalie talks about the search for the right thread, so that the seams would last as long as the fabric. Anyway it works. It’s the same thread you use to sew a button on, not carpet thread.
You know, I had no idea what it was – thank you. But then I am in Malta, Europe. Means I have to buy most supplies from abroad. And I don’t use buttonhole thread, just normal thread with a cord underneath in my sewing machine, and silk twist when I do them by hand.
Okay, I caved. I just signed up for the class!
Well my goal has been achieved! Wendy you will love it.
Am I to understand one doesn’t need a sewing machine for this project?
That’s right: every stitch by hand!
I’m laughing at my own question but I’m having a hard time believing the possible joy of it!
It’s honestly so fun. The construction part goes very fast, unbelievable I know but it’s faster than seeing up a sweater (which admittedly I’m very slow at).
DO IT! DO IT! DO IT! Do not waver! Tarry no longer! One of the most satisfying things to make ever! Every stitch is magic! You can do it!
I back your recommendation of the SWING SKIRT as a first project – 1000%!! My first Alabama Chanin project(s) were a bib, onesie & baby blanket for my first grandson, and I quickly moved on to bigger & more creative projects — and STENCILING!! BEADING!! I went to Florence & took an in-person workshop in 2017, which I absolutely loved. (Natalie didn’t teach the class but she gave a talk & we all met her.) I’ve blogged about all of it, if anyone would like a peek inside the rabbit hole. I’ve been dithering about this workshop only because I’m grumpy because I have to work that day & I’d so much rather participate live… but I think I’m gonna go for it and, well, maybe it’ll be a slow day & I can tune in. I need a little push to get back to a certain beaded car jacket. Anyway, HIGHLY RECOMMEND!! As I’ve heard you say, Kay, hand sewing pushes all the buttons that knitting does, plus it can go a lot faster!
Does the skirt have an elasticated waist or fasten with zipper or button? Are there pockets? Do you really need one of her books in order to complete the skirt? If so, which one? I’m still on the fence, but getting closer to jumping.
ooooo a beaded car jacket! How cool! I love the jacket pattern. Made one up by machine in a very heavy cotton sweatshirt fabric with huge press studs. It turned out gorgeous and is the perfect inbetween jacket (at least in Malta)… Too heavy to sew by hand, it would have given me instant arthritis. I can only imagine how gorgeous a beaded version will be, wonderful!
Btw, I don’t know which of her books you have, but in her first one she says that she wears works in progress…. she specifically mentioned a beaded swing skirt she would add beading to over time.
I sew, and have made clothes by hand as well as machine. I have the books, so may shop my sewing stash. Though beautiful, the kits are (understandably) expensive. I visually lust after them.
Swing skirts for the win! Comfortable and graceful.
I only wish that a “swatch of the month” (perhaps leftovers from the collection of prior years?) might be priced and sold for the class. The kits are justifiably expensive but too rich for me to just try my hand at this lovely craft.
For this class there is a $15 swatch which is where I’m going to start. I signed up, looking forward to it but want to try out the technique before I decide to make a garment.
I am going to be stitching on the last panel of my swing skirt, though I’m wishing that back in 2021 I’d chosen a larger size, more color, and the Tony print instead of medium in black on black (!¿¡) and the intricate Magdalena stencil.
I can hardly wait for class next month, taking the whole day off work to celebrate and really steep in the joy of an MDK online class.
These online courses are just right for me. I’m finishing up my 2nd basket today, enjoying the colors in my Flax & Twine Summer Camp kit.
Remember that you need to sleep in a new skirt to let it relax to its true size JM! That’s a must lol!
I love both my AC swing skirts. They are my favorite things to wear. I have a third just ready to finish up! I dyed the fabric indigo and made it ankle length. If you’re debating it- just do it! It’s so relaxing and rewarding!!
I’m in. At first glance. I have some Alabama Chanin yardage and beads and thread and patterns all stashed in a bin – Just waiting for this class. Or maybe a new kit. There are few packages that are more valued in my home than box from Alabama.
I cant thinks of a better way to spend time than with a needle in my hands and a vision in my head. Xo.
I jumped in last summer and made the Tee Shirt kit. I have sewn a lot but had never made a garment by hand and I was so happy with the process and result, just a wonderfully satisfying project. One issue was that the M size turned out to be too small but @sunnilite patiently helped me come up with a solution. I have the Square Top kit now, I ordered one size larger and just started it last night, it has bugle beading, so excited! Yes the kits are pricey but you won’t regret it, they’re beautiful quality and so much fun! PS: customer service at AC is excellent
It’s too bad the DIY kits aren’t size inclusive. The waist measurement is 5 inches smaller than what I would comfortably wear as a 2XL and given the recommendation to go up a size, there’s no option that would come close to fitting me. 🙁
Same! I would pay more for a larger size kit if it existed. Or even just the pattern in larger sizes. I do know how to grade a pattern, but at that price I would prefer not to have to do that myself.
Yes! I would love a skirt kit, but none would fit me!
My question is: What kind of top (out of my closet) to wear with such a skirt? I knit Nell’s A-line skirt and love it but find I limit its wear because I never feel like I choose the right top. I do love skirts, tho! Note: I always wear tops untucked. Because.
Team Untucked here too! I’ve found some boxy, slightly shorter T shirts on Cos that I like a lot. See if any of these resonate for you–also note they have giant sales periodically, which is a boon. https://www.cos.com/en_usd/women/t-shirts.html
Excellent, thanks! They look very doable. Yippee. Now I can wear my Shakerag Skirt, with impunity and maybe make more!
The longer I’ve been wearing these skirts (Alabama Chanin and Nell’s) the more tops I find work with them. Tees of course, but also my big linen shirts, tied, tucked, buttoned according to Instagram videos….
I haven’t tucked in a top since the 90s….
Thanks for the reminder Kay! I had saved the first email about the workshop to remind me to sign up, your write up gave me the nudge to do it. Looking forward to it! As a beginner I’d be interested in knowing which of her books would be a good first book to invest in.
Hi,I have just signed up for the sewing class, as this has been a wish of mine!!!
I too would like to start with the 15.00 swatch. Do I need two of these or is one good for the class? I like many of you am a multi crafter. My home is happily filled with things I need for all the art projects I enjoy doing.
Wanda
You just need one, plus a spool of button craft thread and a needle. The School of Making sells the thread too if you don’t have any on hand.
This looks great! I’m considering signing up . . .
I’m new to these AC kits and wanting to confirm that they come with the stenciled fabric pieces already pre-cut and ready to be laid out and stitched down?
Yes they do but email them with any questions! They’re very responsive.
OK, you’ve persuaded me: I’m jumping in! I have a swing-skirt kit I’ve been sitting on. I won’t be able to attend in real time, but I’ll get set up and watch as soon as the recording is ready.
I ordered a poncho kit from Alabama Chanin. I have started practicing on the swatch. I would love to make a swing skirt but I would have to adjust the pattern size, as it doesn’t go up to my size. One day I will; I have the book with the printable pattern CD, which I can try enlarging. In the meantime, I’ll stick with the poncho, which I will also get lots of use from.
I’m signing up as soon as the August save 10% code comes out on Monday! I wasn’t going to until Snippets appeared and I listened to the Gael Towey stories – all of them. All lovely and inspiring! They blew me out of the water actually.
I’m one of those with a kit stashed away, waiting for me to get up the nerve to dive in! (It’s actually the one you’re wearing up above.) Which isn’t to say I’m not going to go look at that link you just posted… Can’t wait for the workshop!
PS I will add that I ordered the XXL, which isn’t that big, honestly, and am a little worried it won’t fit when I’m all done with it… 🙁