A Knitter's Weekend
A Knitter’s Weekend: Porto
This summer has been my Mamma Mia summer: traveling Europe, seeing the world, exploring all the nooks, crannies, and yarn a place has to offer. When designer Andre de Castro invited me to come join him in Porto, Portugal, I knew I had to take him up on it.
Day 1: Clerigos and Old Porto
A bookshop is where we started our adventure. Livraria Lello is known colloquially as the most beautiful bookstore in the world. I cannot judge whether this is true, but it is certainly on the top ten list!
You do need a ticket to enter this lovely shop; however, the ticket is also a voucher for your book purchase. I did not find any knitting books, but Livraria Lello provides boundless inspiration within its ornate bookshelves.
Portuguese and English titles fill the bookshelves. I recommend picking up one of your favorite classics in their exclusive print or ask a bookseller for their recommendation.
Next door, head over for a tour of Igreja do Carmo: two churches that form one museum.
Some fun trivia: a very narrow house was built in between the two due to a law prohibiting churches from being built adjacently to each other. Ooh and ahh at the detailed tile, altars, and history of these spaces.
Once you’re done touring, it’s time for yarn. Lopo Xavier & C Lda is the oldest yarn store in the city. It’s provided Porto with wool, notions, and other goodies since 1934.
They have a lovely selection of Portuguese yarn. The warm wood shelves and glass-topped counters make the space feel like a 19th century department store. I did get a Portuguese knitting pin to try the Portuguese knitting style. I still need to learn how to use it.
Of course, refreshments are now needed. Along the Ribiera do Porto, there are plenty of places for drinks, snacks, and a chance to wander along the river.
Once you’re refreshed, and you feel up to it, climb the tower at Clérigos Church. It provides some of the best views of Porto’s red-tiled roofs. If you’re claustrophobic, I wouldn’t recommend the tower. It’s a bit narrow. Andre and I often had to pause in the stairwell corners to let descenders through.
Day 2: Central Porto
Head to the city center for Ovelha Negra, the other wonderful yarn shop in town. They also offer a nice range of Portuguese wool pre-caked for you, which means you can start your next project immediately. It’s very considerate of them.
Once you’ve finished, head to the Mercado do Bolhão for a snack. I recommend the mussels on a stick. Salty, chewy, satisfying. A perfect little bit of protein to continue your adventures in Porto.
If you’re not a seafood fan, there are plenty of fruits, pastries, and other Portuguese delicacies ready for you.
Some advice for Porto (or anywhere you travel): keep an eye on your surroundings. You never know when you might stumble upon an artisan market, or a beautiful tile will catch your eye. Artistry can be found everywhere.
Also worth noting: Burel Factory. They specialize in wool fabrics, felts, clothing, and accessories. It took a lot of strength to not purchase every beautiful item in the shop.
I particularly fell in love with their felt clogs. But they also have bags, backpacks, and even wool vases produced locally.
Porto is filled with numerous opportunities for crafters, artists, or those just curious. I can’t wait to see what you find in Porto.
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Porto is one of my favourite continental European cities. The tiles are amazing. I also shopped at Ovelha Negra – the colours of their yarn are gorgeous!
Who knew Porto had such treasures?? For some reason I always thought of it as a backwater. Clueless me! Thanks, Paul!
For a few minutes, I felt I was there! Books, yarn and mussels! You did a great job of sharing your adventure! Thanks, Paul!
Thank you Paul for your timely article. I will be in Porto in October and I can’t wait to see the sights in person.
Loved the clogs also and a red pair are on the way to North Carolina!
I love Porto! I’ve been able to travel quite a bit and Porto is one of my favorite places. I’m so glad you were able to visit. I did miss Lopo Xavier – I guess I need to return 🙂 Thank you for sharing!
Nice breakfast tour thank you- and a rabbit hole of Burel. So much to imagine!
Oh my! What a tour! Thanks for the inspiration!
Oh gosh! I’m now going to have to add Porto to my bucket list! It looks just lovely!
Yes, please!
What a wonderful destination to begin my own dream visit!
We were in Porto in May. I had to stop and shop in both of those yarn stores and actually made the cream color hat sitting in the bin of Portuguese yarn in Ovelha Negra <3. We love all of Portugal, but Porto was our favorite <3
FABULOUS!!!
Thank you! Ohmmm.
Lovely photos. Lovely city. Porto was the first place where I discovered how to get lost on a bridge: two levels! I learned basic Portuguese style knitting from another woman putting in anxious time in the emergency wing of a hospital near Coimbra while my husband was treated for pneumonia. She didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak Portuguese, but I put my wool round my neck on her cues, then mimed her actions for knit, then purl stitches before one of us was called. She made it a natural, even simple process! I find it especially good for the knit side of stocking stitch stretches when my hands get tired.
I love reading about your adventures. I would love to visit this city one day, and find all the yarn shops. And I really want the clogs! Thank you for taking us there with your writing.
I suppose there *might* be nine other bookstores in that category of exquisite. I’d love to know where they are. That is a wonder of a building. Clever them to change mere tourists into book purchasers. (I do wonder what the locals do if they want to browse. Challenges of tourism!) Thank you for this tour.
My two favourite wool shops. I live in Porto, originally from Ireland. Glad that you found them. They always make me feel like I’m home in Dublin.
Terrific tour, Paul!!! You do know somebody everywhere!! Lots of fun seeing these places. Thanks.
Love Porto! Was only there for 4 days and had so much fun. The food was fabulous. I only saw one yarn shop near our lodging with in walking distance. Next time I will check all the yarn shops I can! Thanks for the review.
Porto looks amazing! It sounds perfect for a weekend break
Hi Paul , thanks for your snapshot of beautiful Porto . I was there in 2023 and fell in love with it and want to go back . Now I have the names of the places I saw when my friends who have a place there took me around. I am also a keen knitter so I will be visiting both yarn shops . Rosie Schild
Great talk about Porto! I can’t wait to visit.
What a GREAT trip you had…wow!!!
I am a yarn “crazy” and Portuguese who has never been to Portugal – go figure!!! But have always dreamed of going and it’s right on top of my bucket list. Vogue knitting? Never heard of it and it’s made me super excited. Love love this article. My fingers are twitching .
Brilliant photos and descriptions of sites and lovely food! Thank you so much
Looks like a wonderful place – wonder that you didn’t need a new suitcase to carry home all your treasures. A place I’d love to visit – thank you for whetting my appetite! maja