Letters
Letter from Paris: Endless Louvre
Dear friends,
This is one of those moments when one wishes one had a chaise longue, so that one could sink gracefully onto it.
I have just this minute come back from a thrilling, exhausting exhibition, Louvre Couture: Objets d’art, objets de mode (the official English title is Louvre Couture, Art and Fashion: Statement Pieces).
This is the Louvre’s first-ever costume/fashion exhibition. Would I miss that? No, I would not.
I’ve mentioned before that the Louvre, for all its terrors, is one of my favorite places to hang out and knit.
Now, the decorative arts galleries don’t have much in the way of comfortable seating, so I don’t knit there very often. However, they are some of the most gorgeous and inspiring spaces in the entire museum. They are usually also, if not deserted, at least much less frantic than the rooms around the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo.
These are the rooms stuffed with goodies like Marie Antoniette’s traveling kit of necessities …
Marie Antoinette’s nécessaire de voyage. © 2007 GrandPalaisRmn (Musée du Louvre) / Jean-Gilles Berizzi
… and you can usually stand and gaze at them without some influencer shoving you out of the way so that she can live her #bestlife for an Instagram reel.
Well, not anymore, kiddo. The clothes have brought the crowds.
Dress by Erdem Moralioğlu 2024
This temporary exhibition isn’t the usual sort, with objects grouped together in a discrete set of rooms. No. Louvre Couture is a scavenger hunt, only instead of looking for a pencil, an apple, or a toothbrush, you’re looking for Dior, Balenciaga, and Vivienne Westwood. The 99 couture pieces (mainly gowns, shoes, and handbags) are scattered through the entirety of the decorative arts galleries. Emphasis on entirety.
Darlings, these galleries are immense. Here is a wee excerpt from the official map.
From end to end, that’s about a quarter-mile (just under 400 metres).
Good thing I wore stout boots.
This hasn’t been arranged willy-nilly. Each piece is carefully placed with objects that reflect its style, materials, or inspiration. While that might sound like rather an obvious gimmick, it actually does work. You find yourself looking at both the fashion and the objets d’art with fresh eyes.
Brocade minidress by Donatella Versace, Ready-to-Wear Collection Autumn/Winter 2002-2003
For folks like you and me, who know what it is to make things by hand, the opportunity to see textile craft at its highest level is especially fascinating.
That’s the thing to keep in mind. Most of the pieces here are haute couture, a term recklessly misused these days but which in Paris retains its original meaning of clothing carefully made by hands trained to the highest possible level of skill.
One short evening jacket may be the work of a dozen or more artisans. Patternmakers, cutters, seamstresses, and embroiderers all take their turn at bringing the piece to completion. Each of those folks will have worked long and hard to learn the craft–and then put in thousands of hours more actually doing the work in order to reach the pinnacle.
Now, a few of these pieces are–there is no denying it–outlandish. You don’t need to bother commenting that you could never wear that to the supermarket. You weren’t meant to. Nobody was meant to. They’re not meant to be worn off the runway, though it’s possible they’ll end up in the closet of a fanatical and deep-pocketed client who might give it a try.
Moschino/Jeremy Scott 2022-23
So what is the point of these wilder creations? In many haute couture collections, especially those of houses whose goal is to push boundaries, there are pieces made to serve as emblems or embodiments of that season’s inspirations. They’re meant to grab attention, and to emphasize (often through exaggeration) the techniques, structures, details, and materials that give the collection its identity.
What’s more, they give the skilled artisans of the Paris atéliers, the beloved petites mains (little hands) the opportunity to show off what they can do. And I am, literally, here for it.
Here are some of my favorite sights. You have eyes, so rather than constantly point out what you can see for yourself, I’m going to shut up and let you at the gallery at the top of this letter. I hope these will give you a taste of what it was like to be there in person.
Minus the need to soak your feet in an epsom salt bath afterwards.
Chanel/Karl Lagerfeld 2012-2013
(If you’re coming to Paris, Louvre Couture runs through July 21, 2025. Wear comfy shoes.)
Cordialement,
Franklin
Vivienne Westwood 2012-2013
Christian Dior/Maria Grazia Chiuri 2017-2018
Balenciaga/Demna 2020, in the newly-restored dining room of the Imperial Apartments
JC de Castelbajac/Jean-Charles de Castelbajac 2010-2011
Hermès/Nadège Vanhée 2021
Balenciaga/Cristóbal Balenciaga toiles (muslin mock-ups) from 1961-1962 and 1967-1968
Versace/Donatella Versace 2018
Givenchy/Hubert de Givenchy 1990-1991
Left: Christian Dior/John Galliano 2004-2005, Right: Dries Van Noten 2017
Fendi/Sylvia Venturini Fendi 2019-2020
In the slideshow above: Christian Dior/Maria Grazia Chiuri 2018-2019. Background: Christian Dior/John Galliano 2006-2007; Chloé/Karl Lagerfeld 1972-1973; Left: Gucci/Alessandro Michele 2017, Right: Maison Margiela 2014-2015; Loewe/Jonathan Anderson 2024-2025; Left: Marine Serre 2023-2024, Right: Bottega Veneta/Matthieu Blazy 2023-2024
Want to keep with with everything MDK? Our homepage tells all.
“Necessaires de Voyage”…
Once I’m done laughing at the obvious excessive extravagance that was considered “necessary”, I then immediately flash forward to so so many people (seemingly all of whom I’ve been forced to travel with/beside) who arrive for a weekend/week of travel vacation with a literal lifetime’s worth of baggage stuffed with clothing for every possible level of attire that will NEVER be needed.
The more we change, the more we stay the same, n’est pas?
But THANK you for these views into the fanciful elevations of hand-crafted arts!
I love what you said about today’s nécessaire. What might today’s woman deem necessary?
1. Personal Care & Beauty
Skincare essentials – travel-sized cleanser, moisturizer, SPF, and serums.
Makeup bag – foundation, mascara, lip balm, and multipurpose products.
Perfume roller or spray – a signature scent for freshness.
Compact mirror – updated with LED lights.
Dry shampoo & deodorant – modern solutions for staying fresh.
Toothbrush & toothpaste – electric or manual, plus floss.
Hairbrush & styling tools – a folding brush, hair ties, or a mini flat iron.
2. Tech & Communication
Smartphone & earbuds – the all-in-one communication, entertainment, and organization tool.
Portable charger & cables – to stay powered up.
Smartwatch or fitness tracker – replacing a miniature clock.
Notebook & pen – for quick notes or journaling, possibly a digital tablet.
3. Dining & Comfort
Reusable water bottle – a sustainable upgrade from a porcelain cup.
Collapsible cutlery & reusable straw – modern dining essentials.
Small snacks or protein bars – for quick energy.
4. Luxury & Style
Sunglasses – both practical and stylish.
Scarf or pashmina – for warmth and elegance.
Jewelry case – compact and organized for travel.
Cash & cards – in a minimalist wallet.
5. Practical Items
Mini sewing kit or fashion tape – modern solutions for wardrobe mishaps.
Medication & first-aid essentials – pain relievers, band-aids, etc.
Travel-size stain remover – replacing traditional hand-sewing repairs.
6. Knitting!!!
Please don’t let anyone “borrow” these for any price so they can wear it to the Met Gala….
Thank you for the post – great!!!!
Must get to Paris.
Franklin should be writing for the tourism industry.
I am bundled in my woolies, looking out at a huge snow bank, knitting yet more woolies…..how wonderful to enjoy a peek at the Louvre! MDK and Franklin….I love this!
I would love to see this exhibit!!!!
Thank you for doing the leg work it’s the closest I will ever get.
Did you think run Bambi ! Run!?
Oooo la la. What a lovely post. I have now fallen down the Louvre rabbit hole.
While looking at other M.A. related items at the Louvre, I found one of her execution. She was on her back as the blade descended. Who knew?
Could this be more wonderful?! Thank you, Franklin, for sharing❤️
The Patterns! The visions!! The imagination of the designers come to life! Who of us hasn’t wish to have time to design a whimsical outfit. Whether we’re inspired by history, fantasy, or just words that flitter through our minds, this selection of gorgeous fashion feeds our need for release from the mundane.
Many thanks for this tantalizing glimpse. I may have actually applauded.
Thank you, Franklin- for this wonderful, inspirational post! I am now dreaming of a weekend get-away to see this incredible show (but, alas, I know it’s just a dream).
Thank you for the tasty treat – would love to make the run through it all and pray I get the chance.
Thank you for this lovely and informative tour. The styles, fashion and skill level was so detailed. Just incredible.
Thank you for the peek inside of this brilliant exhibit. Wonderful that the curator scattered the pieces and placed them with relevant art! A dream to be able to see this – so jealous from NYC!
This was just what I needed after reading the news and analysis this morning, the perfect palette cleanser. Wish I had an upcoming trip to Paris planned, would love to see this exhibit.
One of my favorite areas of the Louvre is where the Chardin’s are exhibited, his paintings are so serene and I have never seen very many people there. It has always been my special spot for peaceful respite from the crush of crowds; I can feel myself exhale and relax then onward and outward to the greatest hits with the masses.
A favorite place of mine, too–Chardin is a painter dear to my heart. Funny story, I almost got locked in that room one winter afternoon when they decided there weren’t enough people in those galleries and they might as well close up shop. They were doing a careful sweep to flush everyone out, yet somehow still managed to miss me until a guard happened to glance backwards just in time. I mean I’m small, yes, but for heaven’s sake I’m not THAT small.
Merci beaucoup! So sorry I can’t see it in person, so I very much appreciate your tour! I love that the items are displayed in with the museum’s collection.
Wonderful! I plan to spend some time staring at these, and enlarging them for details. What a lovely gift!
Great photography. I love the shadows and light play in the images, especially the one with the muslins. As always, thanks for sharing a bit of your Parisian life with us.
Thank you so much for the vicarious thrill!!! So much gorgeousness!
What a feast for the eyes! This is one column I will go back to time and again. The wok is magnificent. Stunning. I am out of words. Thank you!
Thank you!!
Merci!! Now I’m googling flights to Paris! Thank you for sharing this experience!
Wow!! And Franklin’s text brings everything into perspective. Thank you!!!
Thank you Franklin for sharing this beautiful textile show with us !! I just love how you write and describe .. brilliant !
Merci
Lori
Amazing! Thank you, Franklin. Sometimes, it’s not that you can wear something and just throw it in the washer and dryer, it’s proving what amazing thing can be accomplished. I just finished painting a pair of jeans with 16 different paintings/images. My son told me to never wash them! I guess I’ll save them for something like a gallery opening, or sell them to a rock star, but they are so me, I think I’ll keep them.
What a joy! Thank you.
What wonderful exhibit! thank you Franklin for the tour – you are the perfect guide! I hope to get there before closes…
What an array of sumptuous couture! Thanks for sharing photos of extravagant beauty.
OMG, OMG and then surges of love. Thanks for this tantalizing share of the exhibit, amazing.
Incredible! Thank you for sharing your visit with us Franklin. How fun to have the items spread through the galleries to find (or hunt for). A double treasure hunt in my mind for the pieces themselves and their relationship to where they’ve been displayed!
Amazing ! Thank you so much for sharing
What I liked best about this article, Franklin, is your explanation of why haute couture houses show off the weird things they do on the runway. Makes sense to me at last. I enjoy looking at fashion pics in the media (we don’t get much fashion here in Seattle lol!) and your description helps ground my response to the shows.
Merci , for the lovely tour. I will never make it to Paris but enjoyed it immensely. Since I have been sewing since 9 and doing alterations and wedding attire.
Creative juices are what keeps me refreshed. Bless u for sharing.
Oh my!!! Thank you, thank you!!!! Sigh…What astonishing beauty!
How would one of these translate into an intarsia sweater? Franklin? Franklin? Bueller?
Fabulous! Thank you so much for this little trip. Always enjoy your articles.
Thank you for showing us this, Franklin. It’s going on my must-see list for when I’m in Paris in May.
Vive la couture française ! Je porterais volontiers cette veste Bambi au travail ! Mes élèves l’adoreraient ! Merci Franklin et j’espère que tes pieds ont survécu.
So worth the sore feet and long wanderings to view these fabulous works of art, and art they are, so beautifully put together by wonderfully talented people! It looks like the clothing matches the rooms they’re featured in. What a treat, thanks for taking us along on your journey❤️
It was done in the dining room with Scarlett O’Hara.
Stunning, inspiring and fun! Thank you!
The Bambi suit. That’s for me, and yes I *would* wear it. With the headgear, bien sûr.
I love Franklin’s posts – what a wonderful sense of humor! The pictures were gorgeous. I am particularly fond of the Hermes golden cage dress/skirt. But in today’s world it would be worn without the satin under skirt – just wear your skimpiest see-thru thong underwear and let it all hang out (at The Met, the Oscars, etc.)!
Thank you for sharing these gorgeous pieces. I don’t think a trip to Paris is in my immediate future, sadly.
Whoever put the black Balenciaga dress in the Imperial dining room must have been channelling Edward Gorey.
OMG. So much beautiful handwork. Love these photos.
Dear Franklin,
Have you had the pleasure to view “The Red Dress”?
It’s a masterpiece from around the world.
Dear Franklin,
Have you had the pleasure to view “The Red Dress”?
It’s a masterpiece from around the world.
The variety is mind-boggling. But I suppose there are so many facets to play with: color; shape; techniques; materials. And so much of history to refer to. I’ve never been to the Louvre, but now it’s calling.
The Westwood beaded dress is exquisite! Many thanks for this Franklin!
Oh my word! That is utterly splendid. thank you for taking us along.
so gorgeous – thank you! “a thing of beauty is a joy forever” n’est-ce pas?
WOW!
Love this. To see the level of civilization skill and style. Epic. Your commentary is like hanging out with that friend who gets you in trouble. Thanks so much for taking us with you.
Oh it would be so cool to see them all in person. Thank you for sharing! I’m watching an pls series on Britbox called House of Elliot about a ‘start up’ fashion house in London in the ’20s and all the clothes are sewn by hand. I can’t imagine….!