Letters
Letter from Paris: The Great Outdoors
Dear friends,
A couple of weeks ago, the strangest thing happened. The sun came out.
I checked the calendar to see if I’d overslept by thirty days, but no; it was still March. I grabbed my knitting bag and hit the street. Destination: the Jardin des Tuileries.
Two jolly locals frolic in the early spring sunshine of the Tuileries.
A sunny day in March is not a gift you set aside lightly when you live in Paris. I found a bench–happily there are 165 of them in the Tuileries, plus lots of chairs–and worked about 7 inches (17 centimetres, to borrow the quaint parlance of the native population) of the squishy 1880s scarf pattern (it’s called “Victorian Duet”) that we’re knitting together over in my Patreon group.
The colors that I chose for mine (one for each half, both in Anzula Cricket DK) are “Saguaro” and “Mirage.” Their resemblance to fresh, green grass and a clear blue sky are not coincidental. We started this knit-along on February 22, the point in the year when my longing for spring becomes so heated as to verge on the erotic.
That single sunny day was followed by a return to several days of our habitual gloom. Then something even stranger happened.
The sun came out again.
In fact, March has been shockingly fair, if not always warm. I am pathetically grateful. Last year our region, Île de France, set an all-time annual record for the most days without sunshine–and golly gee, I was here to experience it in person. (I was also living in Chicago on the coldest day ever recorded in that famously frigid city. Just lucky, I guess.)
Any bright day when I haven’t been absolutely required to do my work in the workroom, I’ve been en plein air, needles clicking frantically as I scan the sky for approaching storm clouds.
Knitting in the “secret” garden of the Hôtel de Ville de Paris (City Hall).
Fortunately, Paris was made for sitting outside. It had to be. We sit outside because there is no room inside. When I first arrived I was startled at how creatively restaurants and cafés wedge tables for six into spaces that American restaurateurs would consider too small for a potted fern. I’ve had multi-year romantic relationships that were less physically intimate than sitting on a bistro banquette during the lunch rush.
You might not think this would leave enough elbow room to pull out the knitting. Not so.
This is a swatch for the Patreon series on linen stitch that I’m preparing.
I knit it while I was sitting at a café in the Place Colette, watching the Fashion Week crowds swarm to and from the runway shows at Palais-Royal. I thought maybe some of that haute couture energy would overflow onto my fingers.
The only downside, if it can even be called that, to this unwonted clemency is that I haven’t been able to wear my new hood. I have been wanting one for ages, to keep the wind off my ears and neck when I walk or ride a bicycle. I have many wool caps, of course I do, but they have a tendency to blow away. With the hood over them, they will stay put and my ears won’t turn blue and fall off.
This is my own design, beginning with a double-knit front band in ribbing, continuing thereafter in a three-color adaptation of a handsome stitch pattern that Barbara Walker calls “honeycomb tweed” although (as she herself notes) it is not a honeycomb fabric and bears no resemblance whatsoever to tweed.
All it needs is a good wet blocking. Barring a sudden return of February, though, it will probably not see service until next fall.
That is not a complaint.
Cordialement,
Franklin
Love the hood! Hoping it gets washed and put away! Sunny mild days ahead.
Hellooooooo?!?!?
I’m hoping you tell us the NAME of your hood design and when/where that pattern has been released or will be!!!
But of course… when I am NOT being entirely selfish and self-centred, I too wish your charming new hood a warm soak and loving cocooning until next Autumn. However, I’m not in Paris, France I’m in Ontario Canada (actually just up the road a hop skip & a jump from Paris ON) and I can use a charming wool hood bloody near all year long (with a reprieve of 2-3 months of bloody blistering heat & humidity July thru Sept).
& I share with you the ignominy of relocation weather records. I wisely chose to marry a Canadian who is the poster child for Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). I convinced him, fresh out of his MFA in Museum Exhibit Design & Planning, to move with me to Seattle for best mutual job opportunities.
“But… What about all of the rain & gloom?” he protested vehemently.
“Fear not! I did *MY* grad degree in the PacNW and can assure you, they average only 1 inch of rain more per year than Cleveland (my home town with which he’d become quite familiar). PLUS!! They get a sun break almost every day so there’s not usually days on end with no sun as there IS in Cleveland in that infamous period of dread known as February.”
So… we moved to Seattle and settled in just in time to survive the record settingest winter of all times:
– Most days in a row with no sun.
– Most days in a row with measurable rain.
– World record (at that time) snow falls in the mountains/passes.
– Several city shut downs for ice and or snow which Seattle just never sees and so has no city equipment to address the conditions.
To this day I get to hear him regale folks with the horror story of him having to go outside to bail* our koi pond because it was overflowing.
*I’ve never taken his glory by ruining his story with the fact that, if a pond is overflowing, bailing it to the surrounding lawn… WHICH DRAINS DOWNHILL TO THE VERY SAME POND… will not, in fact, protect the fish from floating away, but HE felt as though he was protecting his domain & he enjoys telling the story so I allow him his fun. Either nobody else has put that fact of environmental science together with his story, or everybody else is painfully polite in not bringing it up! I know *MY* family is NOT that kind!
Thank you for your dose of fun and knitting x.
I love the Jardin des Tuileries! Sitting quietly at a table on the terrasse of a cafe and people-watching is another favorite thing. Sadly, I don’t see the chance of returning to France (and Paris) in my near future. Still, I should get my passport renewed, right?
Right! You never know when you’ll need it
Why is my main takeaway from this that I never pegged you as a Perrier person?!
Oh, thank you, Dear Franklin! I needed a good laugh stateside. The “multi-year romantic relationships less physically intimate than sitting on a bistro banquette…” made me snort my coffee. Here’s to more sunshine for us all!
it made me snort too
Snorted over that comment and the “jolly locals frolicking!!!!!” This is the best medicine ever. MERCI, Franklin!!!
3 more days then MY week in Paris begins. Your walks and Letters from Paris have been so inspiring. I plan to be walking everywhere, thanks to you.
❤️I love you, Franklin!! Enjoy your spring…at whatever temperature!!
Your amazing stories are as close as I’ll ever get to Paris, thanx for sharing!
I share your luck with weather. The one winter I lived in Vermont, they had the most hours below zero and the most days below freezing on record. One of the summers I lived in Texas, they had the most days at 100 or above (73). So happy you are having some sun and are able to get outside. With any luck, we will be having some of those days here soon. It has been warm enough, but the crazy winds have made doing anything outside “interesting”
This all makes me wonder WHO is spending all their time recording hours and days of zero temps or sunshine? They should take up knitting.
As always, a pure joy to read.
Look at the weapon wielding jolly local statue man pictured . . . above his left arm . . . THAT BLUE! If I had a ball of yarn that glorious color I would keep it near and gaze at it each day. Never to be knit, just there to amaze me. Franklin, thank you.
Love the hood, hope it does not get put in service until next winter (and hope a pattern is released because I am near Chicago and, yes we do have some famously cold days).
The first time I was in Paris I was shocked not only by how close I was seated next to other diners but also by how so many of them had the habit of holding their smoke wafting cigarettes out to the side—away from their own faces—and right into mine. They came late and reluctantly to the no smoking in restaurants movement. Now that they are no longer emitting smoke I do not mind nestling up to strangers in a cozy bistro. I have still to figure out how to get up gracefully and exit when I have 1-1/2 inches between our tables to squeeze through. Would they prefer my belly or my backside passing over their table?
My daughter and I have had 3 wonderful trips to Paris, enjoyed all we saw, ate, and breathed in the Paris atmosphere. Too old to make another trip with her and it breaks my heart. So glad we took the trips we did, when we did, thinking life goes on forever only to learn AGE gets in the way even though life does go on. Enjoy your days, weeks, years not only for you but for me too. How I envy you! Love to see what you are knitting and envious of you skills and talent.
Thank you very much for the glimpse at sun and flowers, we currently has neither in Ohio and it just snowed today as I walk to work, mind you, it is not sticking but come on, is almost the end of March ahhh. But as always, you came to the rescue, hope you keep getting sunny days
Gorgeous hood!!!
Lovely reading on a March day. And lovely work.
Lovely work and photos to warm an Indiana March day.
No flowers here yet but lots of buds, can’t wait. The hood looks so cozy and I’m looking forward to learning about the linen stitch on your Patreon!
Wonderful post! I’m spending a couple of days in Taos NM where it’s going to hit 70F which is hot for the mountains. You’ve inspired me to take my knitting outside today, there are many lovely places to sit and people watch. Your photos are beautiful, so glad you are having such nice weather, even if it doesn’t last long.
Love the Hood!! Pattern??
After the first few “frantic see everything in Paris” trips, our returns were to the wonderful walks and parks, Tuileries being one of our favorites! And actually cozying up in the cafes was a fun way to meet people, mostly nods and smiles to those that do not speak French …. Me, or English….them. One lovely gent even went so far as to order us a lovely dessert that we should not miss! I can’t think of anything nicer than having a knit in these surroundings and I think you look rather dashing in your hood! Hopefully, it’s now safely stashed away for next year! ❤️
If the sun is coming out, it might be time to get the seersucker suits out of storage….
For me, a Letter from Paris in my in-box is always a treat and this one was no exception. Thank you!
Decades ago I spent a winter (actually 18 mo that included a winter) in Berlin which is a bit farther north than Paris, with 18 hours of dark, cold (Chicago cold), wind, and rain or snow (and a Wall). Gloom barely describes January (after the Christmas lights go off) through March, I remember the sheer joy of the sun returning and getting out into the parks (usually in April). Later, living in northern New England, I felt the joy of warmer days in March – checking the garden for snow drops – but not quite the same as that long, dark Berlin winter. Europeans love being outdoors in their parks and cafes in warm weather – and their cities facilitate that – altho’ in Germany you could sit on the grass so fewer benches were needed.
nice hood. I love the way it fits around your face and allows for cover of part of your chest. Is the pattern on Ravelry?
Love the hood; fallen blue ears on the roadway and sidewalks is just not a good look. Cordialement back attcha
Great colors in the scarf. Perfect choice for spring! And I love the hood. You will appreciate it come fall. I always enjoy your writing. Merci!
I always look forward to your letters on MDK. I now follow you on FB and recommend that to the MDK followers. It gives another view of the Franklin Habit brain. ❤️
Love hearing from Franklin in Paris, on a cold dreary day in Alberta Canada.
You look fabulous in that hood!
Oh my goodness! I have to stop laughing at the caption under the “jolly locals” before I can read the rest of the article!
Anzula FTW! She lives and dyes in my home town of Fresno, CA. Glad her yarn is being toted around in my favorite of all cities.
Ah, the sun finally arrived, everyone out to sit in the park, but wait looks like they all have their heads down staring at their phone! Love your writing.
So funny! Always an enjoyable read. thank you.
Yes, please publish your hood pattern and tell us where we can buy it!
Merci beaucoup.
Paris in the spring- lovely.
Thank you for the visit.
These letters always boost my mood. Thank you!
Oh, Franklin, your descriptions almost take me there! The hood picture is so elegant! I’m picking up stitches for the second half of the scarf. I’m using Drops Fiesta in a cream color with blips of tomato and malachite mostly. I’ll go far on it doing laundry tomorrow. Much love from — how did I end up here? — West Sacramento, CA.
I’m so happy for you to be seeing the sunshine . It’s been the same here in the UK and it is so welcome. It’s always lovely to hear your thoughts Franklin. Thank you for sharing ❤️
Dearest Franklin – your lovely letter was worth setting aside to savor over coffee this very gloomy, rainy Saturday morning. I shall add the jardin de Tuileries to places I can knit & watch people during my month of May excursion. I do (not so secretly) hope for a few rainy, gray days in Paris. Then I shall sit under an awning in a cafe and knit with my cafe crème and perhaps a chocolatey treat.
Catherine
Ah yes the coldest day in Chicago . The day I was convinced if there is A He’ll it will be freezing not hot! Enjoy the sunshine, warm or chilly!
Stupid autocorrect! Hell !
Franklin, love the hood but tell me about your glasses. I’ve been searching for round wire rim glasses. Most are huge, yours, just right!
Oh there is a secret garden at Place de Voges aussi!!I have gone there to stitch on my visits to Paris. But as you say, there are just little spaces all over the place, and I have sat in many of them and gotten a few rows in so that they become something to remember when I look at it.
I always look forward to your posts Franklin. And the hood is a great idea, even if not cycling. You look great wearing.
Fantastic hood, and as always love your witty stories. I have never knit with more than one yarn and would love to learn. Maybe someday.
Have some beautiful sunny days.
Thank your sir for sharing, not just the experience of the surprise weather event of a shockingly sunny mild day in the midst of the expected gray of the business as usual spring, but the joy and let’s not waste a moment of this energy. I think we all need this sometimes, even though I’m more familiar with the forced break/vacation of a snow day. It’s still fun and such an energy reset.
Thanks again
To me, you are still the cutest thing in Paris
It’s always fun and entertaining to read Franklin’s posts.
A handsome hood surrounding a handsome face!