Yarn Detective: Atlas and Jane Bespoke Besties

Modern Daily Knitting has two bespoke yarns now. They are perfectly different, and I love knitting with them both.

Atlas in Tutu (left), Jane in Peony (right)

The Basics

Looking at the factoids of each yarn, you can see instantly how they are different.

Atlas is light worsted weight, 18-22 stitches over 4 inches. It’s made from 100% Rambouillet, worsted-spun, and 3-ply.

If you knit a size large pullover* using 1,380 yards, it would weigh 19 ounces.

Jane is DK weight, 20-24 stitches over 4 inches. It’s made from a blend of 75% white Falkland and 25% grey-taupe Masham, worsted-spun, and 2-ply.

If you knit a size large pullover* using 1,800 yards it would weigh 25 ounces.

These details tell you that Atlas is a squishy (Rambouillet, 3-ply), light-weight yarn (Rambouillet), with a matte surface with clear colors (Rambouillet, white fiber), and has good stitch definition (3-ply).

Jane is a slinkier yarn (Falkland and Masham), heavier than Atlas (Masham), with a bit of a shine and an earthy undertone (Masham, grey fiber), and has softer stitch definition (2-ply).

*I looked at the pattern Flax by Tin Can knits, there are worsted and DK versions.

How to choose between them?

The big answer is: it depends. What is it you want? How do you want your project to feel and how do you want it to look? It’s important to note that there is no wrong answer.

Atlas looks crisp and bright. I wish I could hand you my swatches to squish. The sweater I knit out of it is one I grab often. It’s cozy without being heavy, and the 3-ply structure helps to keep the very soft yarn from pilling.

Jane is a petting yarn rather than a squishing yarn.

It’s plenty soft, but has silky quality with drape. The colors have a depth rather than brightness, and the stitch definition is a bit less crisp.

I’m currently swatching with Jane and handspun for the Pressed Flowers vest. The light twist and 2-ply structure gives the yarn flexibility in gauge and helps the two yarns work together well even though they aren’t the same.

The best way to compare yarns (or fibers, if you’re a spinner) is to work with them simultaneously and compare them side-by-side.

The way dye takes on these two yarns is very different because of the grey fiber in Jane.

Color is a very powerful seductress. One style of color, the clear color of Atlas or the earthy depth of Jane, will appeal to you, but peruse how the stitches play out.

Stockinette

Both yarns have good stitch definition, but Atlas’ stitches look tidier due to 3-ply yarn helping them stack up when knit. Jane’s stitches give the fabric a little squiggle since 2-ply yarns relax when knit (the plies move away from each other) and the Masham in Jane gives the fabric fluidity and a little shine.

Lace

Do you like your lace more architectural-looking with as much emphasis on the decreases as yarn overs? Then Atlas is your lace yarn. The 3-ply structure and the loft makes the lace look sculptural. The line of decreases really stands up and the yarn-overs are less prominent.

Looking for a lace that looks more relaxed and interconnected? The decreases and yarn-overs with Jane have equal prominence. The decreases are flatter and the yarn-overs more open. There is a fluidity to the lace both visually and in the fabric.

To my eye, the lace pattern looks more cohesive in Jane, while the same stitch in Atlas looks more complex because the line of decreases stands out boldly.

Cables

Atlas is the star of cables if you want them to pop. The twists and turns are tight and they lift off of the background stitches due to the spring of the yarn. The clearer way that the yarn takes color ensures everyone can see those stitches.

Jane’s cables are playing a bit of peek-a-boo. They aren’t as crisp and they spread out more. The deep color makes you look twice to see them.

An interesting thing when comparing 3-ply and 2-ply cables is the surface of the cable itself. It’s much more apparent in bigger cables, like a 6 or more-stitch cable.

Look back at the quality of fabric in the stockinette swatches because the surface of the cables has that same quality. A 3-ply cable is tidier with the stitches really lined up. The 2-ply cable is less so. The stitches spread from each other and the cable has a little squiggle to the surface.

Color

The colors I added for this slip stitch pattern are Clementine and Wintergreen in Atlas and Persimmon and Marigold in Jane.

The colors of Atlas are sharp and distinct. Jane’s are moody and flow into each other. The ply structure of each contributes to both the look and feeling in colorwork. Atlas’ colors and stitches stand away from each other, while Jane’s colors and stitches spread out.

This is the spot where I have to confess to having a favorite: those colors of Jane together thrill me.

I would work them into a sweater, even in simple stripes, in a heartbeat.

Yes, it’s a dark combination—some would even say muddy—but to me it’s soothing. That dark-learning saturation really scratches the witchy, living in the woods, with books and yarn itch I have lately.

As long as you are getting the gauge for your project, there is no wrong answer between Atlas and Jane. It’s all about what you like.

In fact, why choose? You probably need a sweater out of both yarns.

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